https://www.cnbctv18.com/views/the-repeal-of-article-370-in-kashmir-is-reverberating-in-sikkim-4258951.htm
The repeal of Article 370 in Kashmir is reverberating in Sikkim
Traditional
Institutions in Democratic Polity of Sikkim
With Tshering Doma
Kaleon
It is a State in the Indian democratic polity, which has a seat reserved
for Buddhist monks in the popular Legislative Assembly elected by an electoral
college of monks. Sikkim also has traditional village panchayats where women’s
representation is still a taboo. The diktats of these panchayats are respected
like the law of the land. The state also boasts of Lamas to perform miracles
such as changing the weather on an auspicious day. Apart from lovely
forests, warm fertile valleys, roaring torrents and peaceful lakes, gorgeous
flora and picturesque fauna, and gloriously glittering insects, Sikkim is also a
land where people hold their traditions and customs close to their heart;
though some of these may appear to be antithetical to democratic principles. Article
371F facilitated the continuity of these practices.
Myths and traditions are not easily overridden; especially when those
have been so much interwoven into the lives of the people. It is no longer “an
inert historicised segment” (Raymond Williams: 1977) here. So much so, modernity curiously recesses to
accommodate the age-old practices and customs. The 22nd State of the
Union of India, Sikkim blends tradition and modernity admirably in its
administrative set up and the Ecclesiastical department in Sikkim, an incarnate
from the past continued to play a significant role in the religious space of
the people even today. The transition from monarchy to democracy was very
smooth and riddle free as far as the continuity of the traditional institutions
like Ecclesiastical Affairs and Dzumsas (traditional village body of Bhutia
community in North Sikkim) and the Sangha seat were concerned.
The Department of Ecclesiastical Affairs has had a long history and it had been mentioned in the Administration
Reports of the State of Sikkim prepared by the Political Officers since
1889. The 1923-24 report states that the
Education and Ecclesiastical departments were placed under the judicial
secretary. The Chogyals jealously guarded this spiritual domain even when the popular
ministries were formed and diarchy was instituted in Sikkim. This department along
with other important subjects such as Forests, Police, Finance, and Land
Revenue remained with the Durbar as
reserved subjects.
Lamaism and Monarchy, the spiritual and the temporal authorities
synchronized completely during the monarchy; so much so, the Tsuklakhang Palace
Monastery was witness to many important political events including the signing
of the Indo-Sikkim Treaty in 1950. Monasteries were always enjoyed the
patronage of the Chogyals. The five big monasteries -Pemayangtse, Ralong, Phensang, Phodong, Rumtek had huge tracts of land, benevolently provided by the ruler, under them.
The smaller ones also received grant in aid from the Durbar. Incidentally, one of the oldest schools in Sikkim– Enchey monastic school- was
established in 1909, by the Oxford-read Chogyal Sidekeong whose rule was
shortest one - less than a year - during the 333-years-long dynasty, as he died
under mysterious circumstances. At present, there are 97 monastic schools and
11 Sanskrit Pathsalas attached to Hindu Mandirs aided by the state government
Since the merger, the Ecclesiastical department is looking after the external affairs of the 1133 religious
institutions (among them a large number are Buddhist monasteries,
Manilhakhangs, Lhakhangs and Tsamkhangs) of different faiths of a population
below seven lakhs. Prior to the merger, the department under the Durbar was
exclusively taking care of the monasteries, even at times interfering in the
internal matters of the monasteries.
Of the many activities of the present Department
of Ecclesiastical Affairs is procuring material for the Sikkim Almanac. Though
the Almanac is published by the Home department of Sikkim, it is the Department
of Ecclesiastical Affairs that procures the master copy of the Tibetan calendar
well in advance from the Astrological department of Tibetan Medical and
Astrological Insititute, Ghangchen Kyishong, situated in Dharmshala, the
headquarters of Tibetan Government in exile. The department prepare a list of
all the government approved Buddhist Holy Days of the year ahead and submit it
to the Home Department for the preparation of the Sikkim Government Calendar.
Yet another special function of this Department is to takes the
responsibility of ensuring fine weather by stopping rains, which is plenty and
unpredictable in the State, during special occasions like Republic Day,
Independence Day and other important state functions. Up on the request from
the Home department, the department of ecclesiastical Affairs, request a
learned Lama, who is supposed to have possessed spiritual powers, to control
the force of nature. The request always comes with a Khada (a long scarf used
in all the auspicious occasions in Sikkim) to be offered to the Lama concerned.
The
department continue to hold the established tradition of the Bumchu ceremony at
Tashiding Monastery. Tashiding Monastery is one of the most sacred and oldest
monasteries in Sikkim. It was believed that Guru Rinpoche personally blessed
and sanctified this site in 8th century. The Duchi, along with Lamas
from the Monastery collect a vase of water from the Rathong Chu (River) in West
Sikkim. This water is kept on the Golden Altar under lock and seal for a year. In
the mid-night of 14th day of the first Tibetan month of the year, the
vase is taken out and water is distributed among devotees. After the ceremony,
the vase will be filled with fresh water from Rathong Chu for the coming year. Devotees
from Bhutan, Nepal, and even Buddhists from other places attend the ceremony and
receive the holy water.
Hence,
the Buddhists in Sikkim considered Rathong Chu a holy river. Not surprisingly,
when the government of
Sikkim proposed to construct three dams (99 MW Ting Ting, 96 MW Lethang and 97
MW Tashiding) on the Rathong Chu, the dispirited monks protested against the
move, perhaps the first ever organised protest since the 1970s democratic
movement in Sikkim. A combined force of the
Bhutia- Lepcha Association, the Tribal Women’s Association and the Association
of Buddhist Monks of Sikkim and prolonged protests, and a march to the capital
finally found success. The government relented. The proposal was withdrawn. The
sanctity of the river was preserved. However, there was no record available for
reference on the stand of the Department of Ecclesiastical Affairs in the whole
event.
In the
earlier regime, the Chogyal, kept the key and seal of the Altar and during the
ceremony in March, handed over the key to Duchi of the monastery. Later on the democratic
government introduced a double lock system to ensure further protection of Holy
water and Altar. Now the Department of Ecclesiastical Affairs supervise the
occasion and make necessary arrangements for the festival.
Duchi
measuring the water of the vase and foretelling the year ahead on the basis of
the measurement of the holy water is a very important occasion of the Bumchung
ceremony. For instance, if the level of the Holy water in the vase, which is
measured in cups or tings, found increased, then disturbances and unrest in the
State is predicted. Whereas the water level is decreased, it is sign of a
possibility of drought and famine. If the level is intact, then it was considered
as auspicious and indicative of prosperity of the year ahead. The Duchi of the
monastery has to submit a report to Ecclesiastical Department about the omens.
If the omen is bad, then Tenchi Shapten, (prayer for universal peace and
prosperity) is performed by the department in consultation with high lamas from
important monasteries for the purpose.
In
this way the Department of Ecclesiastical Affairs keeps religions tradition
alive in the Sikkim democratic polity. The interesting part is that these
archaic practices do not constitute an anomaly to democracy; but it adds charm
to the mystic mountainous state along with the colourful and splendid snow-lion
and mask dances. Perhaps all these contribute to the Sikkimese identity, unique
and fascinating.
https://thewire.in/rights/sikkim-road-connectivity-still-remains-an-elusive-dream-for-dzongu-villages
Sikkim: Road
Connectivity Still Remains an Elusive Dream for Dzongu Villages
It
has been a decade since the earth caved in and Sikkim, especially North Sikkim,
was affected severely in terms of infrastructural damages. Until September
2011, the 32 families of Pentong, the last village of Upper Dzongu, had access through
a narrow road, just motorable, to a concrete bridge that connected Pentong with
Bel and to the rest of Sikkim and the World. Dzongu is a reserved area for the
indigenous Lepcha people; the reserved status is meant to protect their
language, culture and way of life. Around 8000 people who live in this region
practice their own unique traditional and a sustainable way of living, remaining
closely connected to nature.
In
September 2011, the only bridge that connected Bel to Pentong, as well as the
famous Tholung monastery which is situated in the remote wilderness of Dzongu, was
broken by the boulders that fell due to the earth quake. In the days after the
September 19 earth quake, a makeshift bamboo bridge was built across the raving
Tholung River. Multiplelandslides in a
couple of places enroute to to Pentong made it unmotorable and hence the people
from the village are left with no
options other than trekking through the village road to Bel. This has been the
reality for the past ten years. The bridge connecting Pentong with Bel was
never rebuilt. The vehicles which were there in the evening before the quake on
the far side of the Tholung river are seen abandoned as the motorable road disappeared
at places and the connection bridge that was never seen again.
A
visit to Pentong village exposes us to the vulnerabilities of the people who
live there. Though the villagers produce the vegetables they need to meet their needs (and also to sell in the markets
across the Tholung), they have to go to Mangan, the district headquarters of North
Sikkim, for most of many other things necessary in their lives.. Mangan is very far in terms of accessibility.
To reach Mangan, the villagers have to trek to Bel, cross the Tholung River
balancing whatever they carrying for trade on their back or on their head, and
from Bel only one jeep service is
available per day; and that is unpredictable too. So they trek to next village,
Linjam on their way. These paths are infested with leeches during the rainy
season (which is most of the year) and it is a very normal to see blood stains
on their clothes. From Linjam, taxis are available, though not plenty at beck
and call.
From
Linjam they reach Mantam, the next bottleneck. A cloudburst in 2016 , which was
followed by a massive landslide not only created an artificial lake in the area
but also wiped out the bridge across the river, the only way to cross the river
to Mantam. A temporary hanging foot over bridge was built over the river
connecting 10 villages – Pentong, Sakyong, Bel, Lingam, Tingvong, Linko,
Kusong, Payal, Namprik, Nung, Mantamto Mangan. This bridge also connected these
villages to the only functioning Health
Centre in Lingtem.
One
of the villagerssaid that this present hanging bridge itself was a new one;
earlier, a temporary bridge was built with Bamboo and it was too low, and the
water in the river used to touch their feet while crossing the river and during
the monsoon it became unusable. He told us this interesting story of man who
was crossing this makeshift bridge carrying a sack of rice on the back and a crate
of beer on the head. When he lost his
balance he had to quickly decide which one to forgo, so he decided to give up
the sack of rice.
There
are quite impressive health centers built in almost all the villages; but it
remains unused for want of doctors or
other medical facilities. A doctor is supposed to visit the Centers once a
month; but it never happens that way. Doctors visit twice a year at at best , the
villagers said. The building only helped the contractors who built it. The nearest
Health Centre which has a residential doctor is at Passington, Lingam which is
three to five hours of trek for many villagers who live beyond Mantam. Non-existence
of a motorable bridge to go to the PHC, adds to the miseries of people
suffering from ailments.. This PHC at Passington too suffers from irregular
supply of medicines and inadequate facilities. That’s the reason people prefer to
go to the district hospital at Mangan. The
condition of this district hospital is remarkably poor as far as testing
facilities, etc. are concerned. Those who have better transportation take the ailing
and their families to Gangtok, the capital.
In
Pentong village, the lady at the Homestay
where we stayed, said that she had just returned from Mangan hospital where her
infant son was admitted with high fever. They had to carry the baby by foot for
about 12 kilometers, daring the treacherous path and a bamboo bridge and many
further kilometers in a shared taxi to get medical care for their infant. The journey
that began early in the morning ended in the evening. She also told me that she
is no longer interested in growing potatoes as she has to carry huge sack of
potatoes to the market which is far away. Instead she began cultivating dalle, Sikkim’s own proud contribution to the world
of chilies. A 2-kilogram packet of dalle can fetch up to Rs. 1000 while she
would have to lug, on foot, with a sack of potatoes to earn that money.
Carrying
anything heavy is a difficult task in the region due to the lack of proper
connectivity and accessibility. - One such almost impossible tasks is reaching
cooking gas from the respective depots to homes. They do use firewood for cooking, but gas stoves are also
used in cooking. Interestingly, there are no agencies that distribute cooking
gas to these areas; the villagers have to reach Mangan which is a good 20 to 25
kilometers from these villages to collect their cooking gas while carrying the
empty cylinders forreturning.
Normal
logistics is as follows- Mangan to Lingam, people travel in a shared-taxi, then
cross the hanging bridge carrying the gas cylinder on their backs, which is a
balancing act, and then wait for another shared-jeep, that takes them to a respective point and then walk from there to their respective villages.
A
friend who lives in this region, narrated a harrowing story of carrying the corpse
of his cousin through this hanging bridge. The person who passed awayat
Lingthem Health Centre and had to be carried through the 200 mt. hanging bridge
on a stretcher. The bridge kept swaying and they could not hold anywhere in
order to keep their balance. They thought it was a never ending act.
It
is so unfortunate that, in the past 10 years or so the government did not take any
effort to rebuild the bridge connecting Bel with the last village of the Upper
Dzongu, Pentang and Tholung Monastery where the relics and the valuable
Buddhist calligraphies are kept. Same is the unfortunate reality with the non-construction
of a motorable bridge on Teesta River at Mantam. Almost ten villages across the
river had to suffer incredibly due to this carefree attitude of the government since
2016. There were proposals to construct a new bridge but it was not
materialized so far. The
government did construct a bailey bridge, in 2020; but it was washed away in
the next monsoon. The present pedestrian steel suspension bridge was
constructed after that.
The
colossal landslide itself, the locals attribute to the two massive
hydroelectric projects in Dikchu, a stage V project (500mw) by the National
Hydel Power Corporation (NHPC). It is built between Dzongu and Dichu. Due to
this project, the lower part of the Dzongu suffered considerably. Landslides
and river breaches became a normal phenomenon during the monsoon since the
project was implemented. The Stage 3 Project at Chumthang too had huge ecological
repercussions for the whole region.
Tunneling contributed to landslides in the fragile Himalayan region. A total of
six projects are proposed here. Four of them were scrapped and two were
suspended due to the protests. However, now the government is reviving the two
suspended projects despite the protests The Dzongu region also happens to be a biodiversity hotspot. The indigenous people
of Dzongu, especially the new generation have taken over the protest, against
this move.
This
clearly indicates that the development concerns of the government of Sikkim
lies elsewhere.