Well, I am back from a long hiatus. I was into a spiritual journey to the Himalayas – actually on the Gangetic trail part I, starting from Haridwar, Rishikesh to Uttarkashi, Gangotri, Kedarnath, Badrinath and the grand finale at the valley of flowers. Am back now.

Haridwar
Photos by Chinku

Our spiritual passage began from the holy city, Haridwar. We took the Jan Sadabdi express from Delhi in the afternoon and reached Haridwar late in the evening. Har ki Pauri is the main area and THE road unmistakably led to the Ganga; the holy river. We were there just after the Khumb Mela and got to see the remnants of the Mela, the largest religious congregation on earth.

A journey to Haridwar was one of my dreams and all of a sudden it became reality. Here the Ganga flows fervently; before my eyes, carrying the burden of civilizations. I was glued to it; in the mystic twilight; and plunged my feet into the cold water. The water looked muddy; but how does it matter. People come here to wash away their sins, get blessed and search for solutions. And me? I don’t know!


The bathing Ghats are secured with chains that are fixed to the metal pipes so that the devotees take a dip safely in the gushing water. Spirituality with safety! I could see people from different parts of the country, different age groups, speaking different languages; but all of them were chanting mantras eulogizing Ganga, the mother. She looked pleased too watching her devotees offering flowers to her in leaves and also the diyas lighted up. All these were to please her!

And there were the men, wearing a certain uniform so that they looked like officials, approaching the pilgrims, invoking their religious sentiments asking for money and offering special blessings in the event they paid!. They pitched it at Rs.101 and went on reducing the price to as less as Rs 10. The rates go down as the Maha arti is nearer in time. Well, I did not give any money. I think the mighty Ganga did not need money from me. Some people threw money into the Ganga and there were children of lesser Gods collecting that money wading through the knee deep water, daring the cold and the current.

Haridwar is famous for the ritual called Maha arti and we too witnessed to it. Maha arti takes place in the evening, day after day, with the priests holding as many lamps as they are near before the temple devoted to Gangama. People throng the banks to watch the arti; the whole thing lasts a few minutes. Well, it was a visual treat, I must admit. The air filled with chanting of mantras by the thousands of devotees gathered there from across the country, the colourful sky and the fragrance of flowers they offer; all these together created a surrealistic ambience. Surprisingly, I too became part of those unknown faces and sat there in a trance. Humility!!

And as we walk back down the same road, lined up with shops on both sides selling food, clothes and all such material needs of the people and also those selling video recordings of the maha arti or devotional songs. The cycle Rickshaws adventurously negotiated through the crowds while the motor bikes blasted rushed through blowing loud horns irritating those walking. Added to the chaos, the (holy?) cows too were easily finding their way through the crowd. People’s lives and livelihood in Haridwar are very much dependent on the pilgrims who throng here day after day and throughout the year.

Rishikesh, our next destination is just 25 KM away!


How to reach there: All trains bound to Dehradun pass through Haridwar. It is 250 KM from Delhi.These trains go to Rishikesh too. The Indian Railways operate a passenger train between Haridwar and Rishikesh too. A short distance of just 25 KMs.